How to Read Sewing Patterns: A Beginner’s Guide

Sewing patterns can look like a foreign language when you first start. This guide demystifies pattern markings and instructions so you can confidently tackle any project.

Understanding Pattern Envelopes

Front of Envelope

• Illustration: Shows finished garment style
• Pattern number and size: Essential for selection
• Fabric recommendations: Which fabrics work best
• Notions list: Buttons, zippers, and other supplies needed

Back of Envelope

• Finished garment measurements: Actual body measurements plus ease
• Fabric requirements: Yardage for different widths
• Recommended fabrics: Suggestions for suitable materials
• Difficulty level: Beginner, intermediate, advanced

Understanding Pattern Pieces

Common Markings

• Solid lines: Cut along this line
• Dotted lines: Fold lines or stitching lines
• Dash lines: Adjustments for different sizes
• Triangles: Grain line indicators
• Circles: Button or snap placement
• Squares: Pocket locations

Pattern Symbols

• Arrows: Direction to align pattern on fabric
• Darts: Triangular markings for shaping
• Notches: Triangular cuts for matching seams
• Stars or dots: Match points for precise fitting

Understanding Seam Allowances

Most modern patterns include a 5/8 inch seam allowance, but always check your specific pattern.

• 5/8 inch: Standard for most garments
• 1/4 inch: Common for quilting and crafts
• 1/2 inch: Sometimes used for children’s clothing

Reading the Instruction Sheet

Common Terms

• RS: Right side of fabric
• WS: Wrong side of fabric
• Cut: Number of pieces to cut
• Interface: Fusible or sew-in interfacing needed
• Staystitch: Stitching to prevent stretching
• Understitch: Stitching to keep lining in place

Following Steps

1. Read all instructions before beginning
2. Follow steps in order unless specified otherwise
3. Pay attention to diagrams and illustrations
4. Note any techniques you need to practice first

Choosing the Right Size

How to Measure

• Bust/Chest: Fullest part, arms relaxed
• Waist: Natural waist, above navel
• Hips: Fullest part, 7-9 inches below waist

Comparing Measurements

Choose size based on your full bust/chest measurement, then adjust at waist and hips as needed.

Pattern Layout

Understanding Layout Diagrams

• Shows exactly how pieces are arranged on fabric
• Indicates nap direction for directional fabrics
• Shows single or double layer cutting
• Accounts for different fabric widths

Cutting Tips

• Cut on a flat surface
• Use pattern weights or pins
• Cut carefully along lines
• Transfer all markings to both pattern and fabric

Making Adjustments

Length Adjustments

• Shorten: Make tucks or fold lines indicated on pattern
• Lengthen: Slash and spread pattern pieces
• Make adjustments at designated lines

Width Adjustments

• Full or reduce at side seams
• Add or remove width evenly
• Consider fabric stretch and recovery

Conclusion

Reading sewing patterns becomes second nature with practice. Start with simple patterns and work your way up to more complex designs.