How to Read Sewing Patterns: A Beginner’s Guide
Sewing patterns can look like a foreign language when you first start. This guide demystifies pattern markings and instructions so you can confidently…
Sewing patterns can look like a foreign language when you first start. This guide demystifies pattern markings and instructions so you can confidently tackle any project.
Understanding Pattern Envelopes
Front of Envelope
- Illustration: Shows finished garment style
- Pattern number and size: Essential for selection
- Fabric recommendations: Which fabrics work best
- Notions list: Buttons, zippers, and other supplies needed
Back of Envelope
- Finished garment measurements: Actual body measurements plus ease
- Fabric requirements: Yardage for different widths
- Recommended fabrics: Suggestions for suitable materials
- Difficulty level: Beginner, intermediate, advanced
Understanding Pattern Pieces
Common Markings
- Solid lines: Cut along this line
- Dotted lines: Fold lines or stitching lines
- Dash lines: Adjustments for different sizes
- Triangles: Grain line indicators
- Circles: Button or snap placement
- Squares: Pocket locations
Pattern Symbols
- Arrows: Direction to align pattern on fabric
- Darts: Triangular markings for shaping
- Notches: Triangular cuts for matching seams
- Stars or dots: Match points for precise fitting
Understanding Seam Allowances
Most modern patterns include a 5/8 inch seam allowance, but always check your specific pattern.
- 5/8 inch: Standard for most garments
- 1/4 inch: Common for quilting and crafts
- 1/2 inch: Sometimes used for children’s clothing
Reading the Instruction Sheet
Common Terms
- RS: Right side of fabric
- WS: Wrong side of fabric
- Cut: Number of pieces to cut
- Interface: Fusible or sew-in interfacing needed
- Staystitch: Stitching to prevent stretching
- Understitch: Stitching to keep lining in place
Following Steps
- Read all instructions before beginning
- Follow steps in order unless specified otherwise
- Pay attention to diagrams and illustrations
- Note any techniques you need to practice first
Choosing the Right Size
How to Measure
- Bust/Chest: Fullest part, arms relaxed
- Waist: Natural waist, above navel
- Hips: Fullest part, 7-9 inches below waist
Comparing Measurements
Choose size based on your full bust/chest measurement, then adjust at waist and hips as needed.
Pattern Layout
Understanding Layout Diagrams
- Shows exactly how pieces are arranged on fabric
- Indicates nap direction for directional fabrics
- Shows single or double layer cutting
- Accounts for different fabric widths
Cutting Tips
- Cut on a flat surface
- Use pattern weights or pins
- Cut carefully along lines
- Transfer all markings to both pattern and fabric
Making Adjustments
Length Adjustments
- Shorten: Make tucks or fold lines indicated on pattern
- Lengthen: Slash and spread pattern pieces
- Make adjustments at designated lines
Width Adjustments
- Full or reduce at side seams
- Add or remove width evenly
- Consider fabric stretch and recovery
Conclusion
Reading sewing patterns becomes second nature with practice. Start with simple patterns and work your way up to more complex designs.